March 27, 1998
Buenos Aires, Argentina  - {Alvear Palace Hotel}
R80G/S 40604
R100GS 30163


We woke up temporarily around 4:00am.  A mosquito had buzzed my ear.  I
got out the flashlight to go mosquito hunting.  I killed five, two of
which had feasted and made a bloody mess when I flattened them.  Despite
all the windows being closed, it was a good thing we had put up the
mosquito net in our room or else we would not have slept for a moment
since somehow the room became mosquito infested, likely from the
numerous cracks in the walls.  I properly tucked in our mosquito net to
suit the density of flying vampires out there, and we soon fell back to
sleep.


Around 7:00am, I got up and took a shower.  While our private bathroom
had everything in theory, it was a bit rough.  The sink trickled all
night because I was too lazy to get my vice grips out to shut off the
taps.  The German style toilet ran most of the night since the tank seal
seemed to leak.  It took some figuring to discover how to flush it.  As
is the Argentinean way, the toilet tank is built into the wall, however
since this one was faulty the bare hardware was exposed such that one
could easily pull on the inner slightly corroded metal tank stick to
release the water flow.   Taking a shower in here would be a fat persons
torment.  Although it would make things easier if I were willing to
stand in the bidet, I couldn't get myself to do it.  Instead I
squeezed myself in between the sink and bidet which is where the water
from the shower sprayed out onto the floor.  After the steam from the
hot shower filled the air, the numerous flying insects in the bathroom
tended to stay put stuck to the wall rather than fight the fog. On the
positive side, it had limitless hot water and I didn't fear
electrocution which was often the case with showers further North.


Sharon had her shower, and then we ate some bread with strawberry jam we
bought the day before.  We put on our rain jackets before we left since
the sky looked like it was about to rain.


28.2km (17 miles) from the downtown Buenos Aires, the R80G/S died at a
stop light in the middle lane of anxious traffic.  I pulled over to the
side of the road, and helped Sharon push the bike over to a YPF gas
station which was fortunately only 50 meters from where the bike died.
The bike would barely start and idle and revving up the engine would
cause the bike to choke, backfire, and likely die.  I pulled the plugs,
and replaced them with new ones since one side had been seriously fouled
a couple days earlier.  I pulled the carburetor, and didn't notice a
problem.  I started the engine with the plugs pulled, and saw healthy
looking spark.  So, the carbs have gas, plugs are sparking, and air flow
looks like no problem, but the bike dies above anything more than a
rough idle.   Bad timing.  For the last 8 months, 12,000 miles ago, we
had been planning on being in Buenos Aires this morning at this hour,
and now we were stuck with a dead bike 17 miles away from being on time.
Having no quick solution, I chose to put this problem off.


The people who ran the garage came over and offered assistance. however
I had the most difficult time understanding their  Spanish likely due to
my unfamiliarity with the Buenos Aires style and accent.  A local later
told me they spoke an "uneducated" local accent of which other locals
understand but do not consider it proper Argentinean (Castilian)
Eventually, they brought out the owner's son who spoke English.  He
asked if he could help.  Since I was feeling a time crunch, I didn't
want to work on the bike now, and so asked him if there was a place I
could store the bike for about a week.  He told us about a warehouse
that they have next door that they keep locked, and told us that we were
welcome to keep the bike in there which we did.  He said that he had
spent some time in Boston, Florida and New York and found Americans
friendly and helpful when he needed help, and wanted to help us to
return the favor.  Thanks fellow Americans who helped this guy in the
past.  I'm now reaping the reward of your efforts.


We loaded up as much as the already overloaded R100GS would take, and
locked away the rest on the R80G/S in the warehouse.  He then offered to
drive Sharon to a friend of his who drove a remis (special taxi) and
could take Sharon down town to the Alvear Palace Hotel which we were
headed to.  There were no taxis this far out of town, and the
alternative was for one of us to ride sitting on the gas tank of the
R100GS which Sharon refused, or to take several different busses.


They drove Sharon 10km to their friends house while I followed.  The
friend, an older man, then got in his early 70's vintage Ford Falcon
(his remis) and offered to drive Sharon in for $20.  A bargain given
that this in many respects is the equivalent of New York city.   I
followed on the R100GS.  My adrenal glands were pumping out the juice
which always aids in getting the glide feeling going, very useful for
negotiating aggressive traffic.  It was one of the few moments I
appreciate riding a 1000cc motorcycle.  I had to tone it down a little
as the heavily rear loaded motorcycle popped a few unintentional
wheelies, the first being uncomfortably high and with a little roll.


When we turned off the main highway which leads to the international
airport, we entered 4km of numerous traffic lights.  During this 4km,
five people in cars or motorcycles asked where I was from during red
lights.


We arrived at our destination three hours later than intended.
I drove up through the round about of the
<A HREF="http://www.alvearpalace.com> Alvear Palace Hotel<\A>,
a 5 star
hotel which is supposedly the most elegant in Buenos Aires.  Despite the
bike having received it's first wash in ten months about a week ago, it
had mud splashes on the front high fender from going through some muddy
spots passing through the outskirts of Bahia Blanca.  In the heart of
metropolitan Buenos Aires, I would imagine mud splashes are a rugged
looking concept only seen on neglected farm pickup trucks or in the
movies.   With all of the extra gear from Sharon's bike I was carrying,
the bike sort of looked like Jed Clamped's truck rolling into Beverly
Hills, with all the luggage strapped on high in the back.  This morning's
rain had covered the bike in a dirt mist from trucks and busses driving
in front us dulling and dirtying everything.


I pulled the bike up to a group of bell boys and valet parkers dressed
in red coat, cap and black pants.  Unintentionally, I attracted their
attention as I drove up.  When I put the kick stand down, one quickly
walked over.  The look on his face read that he didn't know what to do
with me.  I obviously had lost my way and now was stopping my bike in
the round about set aside for guests probably to ask for directions or
deliver a pizza.


I broke out in English telling him I'd like to unload some luggage.  He
didn't understand.  I switched to Spanish.  He then understood my
intention was to check in and his unchecked demeanor immediately changed
from subtle apprehension to that of hotel guest servant.  I unloaded the
heaped on dirt spray covered luggage that was protected by wind tattered
plastic shopping bags, off of the two wheel Clamped mobile onto the gold
accented red carpet of the hotel front entrance, and then drove the bike
around back to where the valet drivers would normally take a vehicle.


I returned walking through the crowd of guests who wore dry cleaned
double breasted suits, while I was decked out in my usual all black full
riding gear with helmet in hand.  Wearing serious all black motorcycle
combat gear, I felt a bit out of place as if I was in costume walking
out of the filming of some action flick down the street.  The look from
the valet parkers and bell boys was now the more familiar admiring
smiles for having arrived on a motorcycle.  Sharon, who had waited by
the luggage, and I walked into the lobby and over to reception,
meanwhile ignoring the well dressed security guard who out of the corner
of my eye I could see was observing us.


I asked the receptionist in English if he had reservations for us, to
which he began to reply, when my dad all of a sudden appeared behind us.
He and Lee were eating in the La Bourgogne restaurant downstairs and saw
me walk by from parking.  We went down and joined them putting off
checking in until later.




Few restaurant we've been able to find while travelling through Central
America and South America were proud enough of their cooking to post the
name of the chef.  Through anonymity, they protect themselves from lynch
mobs for not cooking the E.coli out of the food.  Not the case here.
According to some guide books, La Bourgogne is among the finest
restaurants in Buenos Aires who's menu is created by Chef Jean Paul
Bondoux.  Despite being near to afternoon closing time, Sharon and I
ordered the degustation menu.


We both had a buttery fish mouse with fresh herbs of dill and parsley.


Sharon started with a Mediterranean salad fresh mozzarella, tomatoes,
olive oil, basil, baby greens, and a brochette with melted mozzarella,
olive oil and basil.  For her main dish she had a beef fillet with a red
wine herb sauce, mash potatoes and steamed vegetables.


For an appetizer, I had the most fresh salmon fillet (sushi quality or
better) covered with minutely sliced green onion, and surrounded by a
light mustard hollandaise sauce that went excellent with the champagne.
Despite Dad ordering a bottle of Krug, he said they nodded in affirmation
and delivered a bottle of Argentinean Champagne (Baron B).


For the main course, I had rabbit in a herb white sauce, served with
greens, and potato gratin that all went wonderfully with the sauce and
red pinot noir we had.


For desert, Sharon had a floating island which was a vanilla meringue in
a custard sauce covered in sliced toasted almonds.  I had a cheese plate
which consisted of my choice of cheeses.  I can't remember my choice
other than, one cheese which was completely covered in rosemary and
went well with the red wine, a butter cream similar in appearance to a
brie, but more like butter, some Argentinean Roquefort, and two onion
and pepper coated cheeses made from the chef's own house.


The meal was completed with some cappuccino, and some truffles, candied
orange peels, tiny coconut macaroons with hazelnut and tiny raspberry
lemon custard pies.



Afterwards, we checked into our room.  The hostess led us to our room on
the 6th floor, and opened the digital card key entrance lock.


The first thing I notice entering the room is that we have Pavorati
coming out of our armoire.  There are crystal chandeliers.  Three digital
telephone with touch sensitive LCD displays almost as big as my palmtop.
The telephone operates in 6 languages.  I can set and get current
temperature, word times, and control my television and stereo by station
name from my touch display on my telephone.  We have plain paper bubble
jet fax machine next to the silver fruit bowl full of fresh fruit, A
vase full of a half dozen roses, and mirrors galore.  An electronic
digital thermostat set to 74.9 degrees.


I asked if I can plug my computer into the phone outlets here of
which we have three lines into the room.  She said, yes and offered to
send a concierge up to help if I like.


Later I opened the armoire and found a TV and a stereo with CD player
which turned out to be the source of the Pavorati.  Stocked
refrigerator, champagne and water glasses, etc.   In the closets which
have lights that turn on when opened, there is an digital electronic
personal safe.


We have terri clothe robes in our bathroom, ornate solid brass fixtures,
polished marble floor and counter tops.  Various Hermes soaps from
Paris, a glass jar of Q-tips, bath scale, a feature loaded phone next to
the toilet and bidet, and the bath tub is a deep Jacuzzi big enough for
two.  The mirror I later found out is heated so as to prevent steam up.


Our hotel has a dress code for hanging out in the lobby which we meet at
the very minimum in that we aren't wearing shorts or sleeveless shirt.
Most everyone in the lobby wears a suit or evening dress.  It has a
formal grandeur out of style in the US for the past half century.



Fortunately Dad and Lee told the receptionist ahead of time to expect
two people who look like they have been traveling around the world on a
motorcycle for the past year.  The receptionist said, "Very well, I'll
inform security" preventing any potentially unpleasant
misunderstandings.




When Dad and Lee returned to their room, they found a bottle of Mumm's
Champagne chilling, and so called us up to join.  We went up and for
the next couple of hours sipped on the Mumm's, and two bottles of '83
Belecart-Salmon champagne which they had brought along.



In the basement of our hotel, at 11:30pm, the Armenonville Tango show
began.  Upon entering, they offered me a sports jacket so that I would
conform to their dress code.  The tango is a dramatic posing, body
twisting, foot flaring dance extremely high in passion and energy.  I
enjoyed and valued the passion in the dance, and could see beyond the
well hidden every night numbness of constant repetition to the inherent
energy and style.  However, I just couldn't get into the older man and
75+lbs over weight woman singing to the tango which Sharon enjoyed.  I
felt her age, figure, and style of singing lost any true passion
typically possessed by a younger crowd growing up in a sexually
repressed society.  The male singer sang in typical Latin American
dramatic style which as it usually does, repulses me rather than
bringing me to empathize with  the artificial pain the singer attempts
to create in his drama.  However, I really got into the dancing, and
instrumental pieces the band played.  The band was composed of two
accordions, two violinists, an acoustic bass, acoustic guitar, a
pianist, and occasionally an acoustic electric guitar who all got into
their music as they played tango music which was dramatic in pauses,
down beat, and Slavic in sound, with melody primarily carried in the
accordion.


While we watched and listened, we sipped on a bottle of 1990 Crystal
champagne with nuts and ord 'huevres.


March 28, 1998
Buenos Aires, Argentina  - {Alvear Palace Hotel}


At 9:01am, the doorbell chimed, and I opened the door to find a hotel
servant had brought up our breakfast as requested by leaving the order
out on our door knob last night.  We sat in our white terri cloth robes
and white terri cloth slippers in front of our tall windows behind the
translucent sheers that lit up the whole room with a nice natural
lighting.  Meanwhile our armoire was again the source of the soft
ambient classical music.   Our continental breakfast came with two kinds
of toast, and two types of croissants, four individual personal size
sealed jars of preserves including strawberry, raspberry, orange
marmalade, and dulce de leche.  To drink the breakfast came with a tall
glass of fresh squeezed orange juice, and a cup of cappuccino.   This
was to be our breakfast every morning we stayed at this hotel.




We had lunch at the Au Bec Fin restaurant, a famous French restaurant
that has been in Buenos Aires for a long time.  The name which
translates to the "at the fine beak", is French slang that refers to a
particular type of diner in France... a light discriminating eater.


The restaurant had a nice turn of the century atmosphere with dark
polished wood floors and side paneling.  We had the restaurant to
ourselves today.  It appeared as though they only opened the doors for
us.  Dad had made reservations far in advance.  They closed the
restaurant after we left.



Fish cakes, with green onions were the appetizer.  They served a
delicious olive bread, herb bread rolls with the meal.  The main course
was especially wonderful which consisted of chicken tenderloin
completely coated in poppy seeds with a Jamaican saffron sauce that
looked like it was made from egg yokes.  It was topped with some crispy
shallots.  desert, an orange mouse layered between medallion size dark
chocolate disks and candied orange sauce with bits of peel.  To drink
with the meal we had a Louigi Borca non-vintage cabernet, merlot, malbec
blend, Baron B champagne, and a part Riesling white K_____.



In the evening we hung out in the lobby bar and had an '89 Louigi Borca
cabernet which I figured to be the best value in Argentina at the time.
Later we had some more '83 Belecart-Salmon.



March 29, 1998
Buenos Aires, Argentina  - {Alvear Palace Hotel}
breakfast


In the late morning, we walked around the area over to the Recoleta
cemetery where the aristocracy are buried in beautiful tombs.   The
tombs are unbelievable.  It seems people spent more money on their tombs
than they probably spent in their entire lives.   Many of the tombs are
huge granite or marble constructions with stone carved statues, fancy
iron or brass work. brass plaques mark the family that is buried in each
tomb.  Evita Peron is buried in this cemetary with her family.
Apparently this was a controversy at the time since all her life she
supported the working class which everyone in this cemetary spent their
time exploiting.



Lunch, we ate at Lola's which was located near a strip of outdoor cafe
restaurants near the Recoleta. I had a wonderful carpaccio covered in
shaved parmesan slivers, olive oil, and greens.


Sharon had fresh mozzarella, olive oil, fresh tomato and fresh whole
basil leaves.


Dad had a king crab salad


Lee had fresh salmon with capers.


main course
Sharon and Dad ordered a medium rare cooked lamb steak which came with a
side of a sort of apricot chutney.


I was served a huge portion of steak tartar which was delicious, but I
was limited by the balsamic vinegar as to the amount I could eat.


Baron B Champagne and a '93 Philipe Rotini cabernet went with the meal.
This was followed by a cheese platter of probably 10 different cheeses.
after which I had a wonderful creme brule and expresso, Sharon had a
raspberry filled crepe with vanilla ice cream



March 30, 1998
Buenos Aires, Argentina  - {Alvear Palace Hotel}
Buenos Aires - {Alvear Palace Hotel}


Today we had our main meal at Catalina's.  While it had a pleasant
atmosphere, I thought it was funny how the chef's picture was on all the
walls.  When he walked through the dining area, I knew who he was.


The menu had listed venison kidneys which I decided to try.  When I see
something like this, I can't help suspecting it might be a joke, and
that there's a candid camera somewhere.  I figure, I've never had
venison kidneys, and if I'm going to try it, there's no better
opportunity than a place like this to have prepare it.  Unfortunately,
(?fortunately?) the waiter said they were out of venison kidneys.


I had smoked salmon as an appetizer instead, followed by an
arugala salad covered in red pepper melted goat cheese and decorated
with endives.  For the main course, I had a wonderful rosemary brazened
Patagonian leg of lamb steak.  The lamb came with two kinds of home made
delicious potato chips that were non salted, and non greasy made
from two varieties of potatoes, one being slightly sweeter than the
other.  For desert a delicious splayed baked pear covered with the most
delicious sweet almonds, and a side of wonderfully light vanilla ice
cream that seemed more like a vanilla sherbet.


Sharon had mushrooms caps stuffed with a duck foie gras which she loved
especially with the '79 Weinert cabernet. The same arugula goat cheese
salad, Incredibly delicious lamb chops from Patagonian lamb.  For desert
Sharon had a crispy almond cookie basket filled with fresh strawberries
in a pool of tangerine sauce.


Dad had the set menu. First course included salmon and caviar.
main course was a bowl of sauteed fish cheeks,  He had the same desert
as Sharon.


Lee had an appetizer of mixed seafood of salmon, scallops and shrimp.
a salad, and then the Patagonian lamb chops.


With the meal we had a Krug Grand Cuve champagne and two bottles of a
wonderful '79 Weinert Estrella cabernet which turned out to be my
favorite Argentinean cabernet.


While this was my favorite meal, I was turned off by the immodest nature
of the chef both in outrageous prices and vanity.



March 31, 1998
Buenos Aires, Argentina  - {Alvear Palace Hotel}
Buenos Aires - {Alvear Palace Hotel}


Did some more research this morning on airline travel to Europe.
There are flights to all over in Europe with the most being to Madrid.
Most of the travel agents have the same price of around $1100 round
trip from Buenos Aires to Madrid.  One way is usually the same or more
expensive.... go figure.  Sharon found the phone number of a flight
consolidator called Student travel service which had an add in our
guide book.  Calling them we priced a flight on British Air, or Swiss
Air to Madrid for $550 one way.  Excellent!  As with all flights, there
is a 5% tax, and an additional $16 fee paid at the airport.


I walked around town and stopped in at the American Airlines office, and
Iberia (Spanish national carrier) to ask about air cargo options.  While
I didn't expect them to be a potential service, they connected me up
with air cargo freighters in town.  Both airlines were friendly and
extremely helpful.  From Iberia, I received a photocopy of 70 different
air cargo shippers with phone numbers and addresses located in the BA
areas.


Today's feast was at L'Orangerie, in the indoor hotel garden area.
As is typical, we feasted from 1:30- 7:00pm where we then moved on to the
Japanese sushi restaurant at the Cesar Palace hotel. The L'Orangerie is
a large and wonderful gourmet buffet.


Along the way we stopped in at an antique furniture store which could
have doubled as a museum.  They had some excellent pieces, but I think
deluded on the prices.  There was a 19th century Portuguese dresser which
Dad asked the price of.  The woman said it is sold as a pair with an
identical dresser and together they asked $200,000. I would have guessed
the price to be 2 orders of magnitude less.   They came down to $180k
and would throw in another dresser that they asked $45k for.
Completely ludicrous prices.  At these prices, their only hope of
survival is on snagging someone who money has lost it's value and has a
taste for antiques.  They had a chandelier hanging their that they said
they just sold for 100,000.  unbelievable....





April 1, 1998
Iguazu Falls, Argentina - { Hotel Internacional Iguazu }



We took the hour and forty minute Aerolineas Argentinas Boeing 737
flight to Iguazu.  We flew over vast jungle where the ground cover was
thick vegetation.  As we flew near the falls, all that could be seen was
a white plume of mist that erupted out of the jungle.  Near the airport,
I could see a few rectangular plots of red dirt where the jungle was cut
away for farms.


We took a remis (kind of taxi) to the hotel Dad and Lee had made
reservations at.  Along the way we passed the national park border which
we had to pay $24 to enter.  This entrance fee however was good for a
week.


We checked into the Hotel Internacional Iguazu which is a 5 star hotel
located on the Argentinean side, and the only hotel where the rooms have
a view of the falls.  Our rooms were on the top floor on the falls side
with a wonderful view of the falls.  One whole wall of our room was made
of glass with a sliding glass door that opened out onto the balcony
where we could sit and enjoy the view.  Most excellent!   The hotel was
located at the trail head for hiking around the falls.


Soon after checking in, we downstairs to the restaurant floor where we
had a delicious lunch buffet.  One entire wall of this floor was made of
glass with the ceiling stretching upward to floors.  The room was nicely
lit up only by natural sun light during the day, and retained an in the
jungle feel.


After lunch, we boarded the back of a vintage WWII army surplus truck,
which had been converted into a sort of  open air transport.  This took
us through the jungle, through roads that were so laden with mud and
water as to be unpassable by most vehicles.  riding in the open air
back, we were able to take in the jungle canopy overhead.  Those who sat
on the side had to keep an eye out for the occasional branch or vine
hanging overhead, or possibly get wacked.


The truck took us to a launch point on the Pirana river down from the
falls where 9 + 2 pilots boarded a 20 person light rubber raft equipped
with two enormous V6 200 HP engines.  This normally redundant and
incredibly over powered boat was the perfect transport for taking up
this river.   The captain was having a blast, it was obvious that he
loves his job.  Since it was the last trip of the day for him, he
spent quite a bit more time coming close to the falls, riding the river
swells which in some places seemed to dip and rise +/- 5 feet.


When the boat approached the bottom of the falls, we entered a
continuous downpour of mist and rain that made it virtually impossible
to see up ahead as we tried to keep the water out of our eyes.  The
captain continuously powered the boat getting as close, and for as long
as anyone on the boat would want to go.   He stopped outside of the mist
and rain to take photos.  Their is practically a constant beaming rainbow
somewhere in the sky since there is so much mist blown upward.


By the time we returned to the launch point, we were drenched, but were
in high spirits as if we just unloaded off one the most awesome
of amusement rides.


April 2, 1998
Iguazu Falls, Argentina - { Hotel Internacional Iguazu }



Iguazu Falls is a canyon with water flowing from all sides.  The border
between Brazil and Argentina splits the falls down the Pirana river.
Yesterday, we had arranged for our driver, Marco, to return today and
take us over to the Brazil side.


We met him in the hotel lobby at 9:00am.  He drove us 20km to the bridge
crossing the falls, across the river, through customs, and then to the
Hotel Cata---- which is the five star hotel on the Brazil side located
just behind the approximately one hour long scenic walkway which we
hiked.


On both the Argentine and Brazil sides along the falls, the area is a
designated national park and has nice easy access walkways.  The Brazil
side walks along the cliff side with a stunning view of the Argentine
falls.   The trail ends less than one foot away from the start of the
Brazil falls where an elevator will take people up the cliff for .50
Brazil Reals (US$.40).  Near the end, there is a section of the falls
that one can walk out onto along the middle tier, however the waters
were so high that it was closed since water was lapping over the
walkway.


After another wonderful buffet lunch in the hotel followed by a nap, we
hiked the Argentine side. first doing the lower circuit, later followed
by a hike along the top of the falls.  It certainly appears that we are
experiencing the falls when the water levels are at an all time high.
Many of the trails have water flowing over, and are closed off due to
the high water level.  Each day that we were there, the water level was
higher than before.  In some spots  reinforced embankments had water
rapidly flowing over.  Many sections were closed including a catwalk out
to the "devils throat" section of the falls.


The butterfly scene is incredible.  I have never seen so many and such a
variety of butterflies in the wild as I have here.  Beautiful colored
butterflies are everywhere.  They seem to especially congregate by the
hundreds around puddles of water in the sun shine.  Some with hip color
schemes of metallic purple wings with neon green tongues, black and
white bulls eye wings seemingly designed by Miro.  Another of a gray
silver Florentine ink design wings.  All are beautiful.  Apparently
there are 500+ species in the area of which I'm sure we saw at least
10%.


I think to appreciate Iguazu at it's fullest, one should see the falls
from all the various vantage points.   From the boat, we were showered
by the mists, and felt the deep swells and power of the rapid flowing
river below the falls.   From the Brazil side, we got the best overall
view of the falls.  From the Argentinean side, we hiked along the falls,
near the edges below, and got an in the jungle view of the falls.  It
was on the Argentine side where we saw the most local fauna.  Each was
spectacular in it's own way.  It's possible to see the falls by
helicopter.  For $50 one can hop in a helicopter for a 7 minute ride.
The Argentine visitor center discourages the helicopter flights as they
try to grow an awareness of the ecological impact the helicopters are
having on the bird life primarily due to the noise.  Around the falls, I
think the sound of the helicopters is pretty much drowned out by the
continuous thunder of the falls.   We purchased some helicopter ariel
photos of the falls from a near by photo shop.  They were interesting in
that they showed how the falls are formed.  It's theorized that
approximately 100,000 years ago, a large earth quake hit the area
ripping a huge fissure in the wide river which feeds the falls above.
One look at the ariel photos, and the theory appears more than
plausible.


When we returned, we cleaned up and later joined Dad and Lee downstairs
who were finishing off their last bottle they brought of '83 Belecart
Salmon while sitting outside on the deck.


While eating dinner, the US ambassador to Argentina stopped by and said
Hello.  This apparently being the third time Dad and Lee encountered him
today.  Dad described him as a manic depressive constantly in a state of
mania talking a mile a minute.  During a five minute conversation they
had earlier, they were enlightened with a whole wealth of information
about himself.  I never imagined a US ambassador speaking with an
Australian accent, At one point he joking suggested that maybe he should
put on his American accent.



April 3, 1998
Buenos Aires, Argentina - {Alvear Palace Hotel}


I woke up around 6:30am and hiked out along the upper fall trails to a
spectacular look out point.  The view point was surrounded by flowing
water on the edge of the cliff and overlooked two tiers to where the
water flowed out to the river below.   However, when I first arrived,
below was blanketed in a fast moving mist like a cloud but with more
substance and energy.  There was no visible bottom to the falls.
Inconceivably vast quantities  of water appeared to flow off the edge of
the earth into the clouds for hundreds of meters of the falls edge of
which I could see.  In non geo-spherical times, this would appear to be
the end of the earth.


Getting up early around dawn, was like having the area to myself to view
the falls in private.  Over head a flock of 20 or so green parakeets
flew by.  They are about the only natural sound I could hear over the
low rumble of the falls,  Occasionally one or two toucans would fly
overhead.  They seem more common here than the places we visited.
Almost as common as a cardinal might be back home.  They look like they
struggle to fly as their short wings rapidly flap around their
relatively long body a quarter of which is a colorful beak.  They don't
swoop or change altitude much but rather fly in direct paths from point
A to B.


As I was walking in, I walked past a bunch of wild dark gray colored
guinea pigs that were shy to my presence, and of which I hadn't seen
earlier.  I suspect they only come out during times of few people.  All
of their grass burrows entrances were next to each other making for a
little guinea pig village.


The lookout point I sat at was at the water edge overlooking San Martin
island.  The island is an island in the sense that it is surrounded by
water.  It's actually set on the second tier of the falls.  The lush
green constantly receives mist clouds from the falls that surround it.


At 8:06am, a ranger walked by and told me that this area opened at
8:00am, since I had obviously not known, and walked in early hopping
over all of the closed signs roped across the path along the way.  He
also pointed out that I had crossed a taped off area to sit on one of
the park benches.   I made light of his informative reprimand and it
diffused into nothing.



The first time I heard about Iguazu falls were when I bumped into some
friends back home in Champaign, Illinois and told them about our trip.
They told me they really enjoyed it, and recommended going there.  Since
then we met a few others that told us it's a must see.  When someone
told me that it's much bigger and more impressive than Niagara, doubt
crept in my mind, and I geared myself up to be disappointed.  After
visiting Iguazu, I discovered this person wasn't exaggerating, but
rather understating the enormity.  I'd put it up there as among the most
beautiful areas in South America, among Torres del Paine and Machu
Picchu.



We caught the 12:40 flight back to Buenos Aires flying business class
where I think I over did it first drinking the champagne before take
off, followed by two small glasses of red during the first course meal,
followed by a white wine during the second fish course, followed by a
glass of Cognac with desert.  I was keeping in spirits of our past week
in Buenos Aires,  They were all tiny airline glasses :-)


We took a taxi to Katrine's for dinner.  Katrine is a Norwegian cook
famous in Buenos Aires.  She has a beautiful restaurant on the water
front that has an open feel, light hard wood floors, pastel flowers,
with an over all new age style setting.  As usual, we arrived too early
at 8:00pm. We were the first ones to arrive.  However traffic started
picking up between 9:00 and 10:00pm.


Sharon had a pear salad... slices of perfectly ripe red pear with tons
of shaved parmesan, arugula and a dressing of balsamic and olive oil and
freshly ground black pepper.  Sharon had a spaghetti with regular and
porcine mushrooms, garlic parsley and olive oil.


I had grilled mushroom caps in a parmesan sauce with aural.
For the main course, I had a wild mushroom resoto.


Dad had a king crab salad.
sea bass for his main course.


Lee had the best carpaccio of her life there.  Ink squid pasta with
salmon.  Which I thought looked interesting.  Black pasta noodles with
strips of pink orange smoked salmon on top.


'79 Weinert Estrella cabernet, Baron B rose champagne.
Roza's tawny port wine from Oporto


I really enjoyed the atmosphere and food here....


April 4, 1998
Buenos Aires, Argentina - {Alvear Palace Hotel}


We went to Dora's which was a change in atmosphere.  Our waiter was
courteous, quick, and warm, lacking refinement.  The change in formality
was refreshening, however they lacked the glass ware to go with
their awesome wine.  They had little table wine glasses, and water
glasses, but no 20-32oz nose trapping cab or Burgundy glasses to suit
the nice catana zapata they recommended.


The atmosphere in the restaurant is alive with talking, semi formal in
dress with dozens of hams and garlic strings hanging from the ceiling.
We had an excellent meal.  They have a large menu to choose from.  We
were warned that all of the portions are large, which certainly turned
out to be the case.  They serve New York strip steak in 1 kilo portions
(2.2 pounds).  Sharon and I split one which is what customers usually do
there.  They brought out two one pound cuts 2 inches thick.  While it
certainly wasn't the most tender steak I have eaten, it was among the
most delicious tasting.  We also drank a Baron B brut champagne, and at
the end a Roza's tawny port wine from Oporto.


Homey and delicious side dishes (heavy on the garlic)
garlic with spinach
garlic with brocoli and potatoes
plate of cheeses
'92 Catena Zapata from bodegas Esmeralda.




As with just about every night at the Alvear Palace, the ballrooms were
filled with some party.  Often there is a wedding reception.  Tonight,
Lord Charles and Lady Cecile where having an anniversary party here.



April 5th, 1998
Buenos Aires, Argentina - {Alvear Palace Hotel}


We had lunch at L'Orangerie, and then later hung out in the lower lobby
just talking having a wonderful time catching up on things and reminiscing
over the past week.   Dad and Lee's were to leave for their plane at
7:00pm.  We didn't expect to see them again for some time...



----
Dave Thompson




thompson@pdnt.com      www - http://sdg.ncsa.uiuc.edu/~mag/Thompson


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